Chopard L.U.C LUC 16/1860/2 Rose Gold Black Dial
Basic Info
Listing code : NVIN00
Brand : Chopard
Model : L.U.C
Movement : Automatic
Case material : Rose gold
Bracelet material : Crocodile skin
Year of production : 1995 (Approximation)
Condition : Used (Very good)
Scope of delivery : Original box, no original papers
Gender : Men's watch/Unisex
Location : Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur
Price : 22,500
Availability : Item is in stock
Caliber
Movement : Automatic
Case
Case material : Rose gold
Dial : Black
Bracelet/strap
Bracelet material : Crocodile skin
Other
Product safety : Show information
Let’s begin by saying that, to many, Chopard is predominantly seen as a jewellery house and not really thought of as a serious horological manufacture. There are reasons for this of course, with questionable watch designs over the years, it was always going to be an uphill battle. That being said, after you’re done reading this, you will see why the Chopard 16/1860/2 is unlike anything of the aforementioned and one of the most revered watches to those who are in the know.
Beginning with some historical context, the ’90s were seen as a period of recovery. Watch manufactures were still wary of the devastating quartz crisis that decimated the entire industry in the 80s, and as a result, remained largely conservative. Most brands were content using movements that had existed for decades from suppliers such as Valjoux, Lemania, and ETA. Bar a few outliers, it was just not the time to go wild.
Around the same time, Chopard was looking to establish itself as a serious player in the world of haute horlogerie. That journey began in 1993, with the help of esteemed independent watchmaker Michel Parmigiani. As a testament to the brand’s commitment, it wasn’t until 1996 that Chopard felt ready to unveil its high-end watchmaking division: the Manufacture L.U.C. The 16/1860/2 you see here today was the very first watch released under the L.U.C. banner—and it was met with widespread acclaim. Featuring a brand-new, fully in-house movement, it was described by Walt Odets on Timezone as “probably the finest automatic movement being produced in Switzerland today.”
There are several elements that make this watch truly impressive, but chief among them is the Cal. 1.96. Even at a glance, its beauty is undeniable—even to someone without a background in watchmaking. It’s clear that Chopard spared no effort with this movement; the Cal. 1.96 stands as one of the most exquisitely finished calibres of its era. Featuring a beautifully engraved 22-carat gold micro-rotor, thick hand-bevelled edges, and deep, lustrous Côtes de Genève (Geneva Stripes) throughout, it exemplifies traditional haute horlogerie at its finest. In fact, none other than Philippe Dufour himself once ranked Chopard second only to A. Lange & Söhne in terms of movement finishing at the time—a remarkable endorsement.
Not only was the Cal. 1.96 masterfully decorated, it was also a technical marvel. With a 70-hour power reserve from two stacked mainspring barrels, it also featured a Breguet overcoil hairspring and a swan neck regulator, all contributing towards its precision and power dispersion. The most comparable movement to the Cal. 1.96 would have to be the ever-trusty Patek Philippe Cal. 240. While that movement is historically important and impressive nonetheless, when comparing the two side by side, I think there is no contest as to who comes out on top. As a cherry on top, not only is this Chopard COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certified, but it also bears the hallowed Poincon de Genève (Geneva Seal).
When the watch is flipped over onto its dial side, it strongly resembles a certain Dufour Simplicity. That is because the 16/1860/2 dial was produced by Metalem, the same Swiss dial manufacturer that produced the Simplicity. The beautiful hand-engineered, glossy black dial is stepped and features a beautiful central guilloché pattern that only reveals itself under certain lighting conditions.
While they made 1860 examples of the 16/1860/2, it was mostly cased in yellow gold with a silver dial. This example bearing a black dial with a rose gold case is rarely seen and makes this watch just that much special.
I truly believe that the 16/1860/2 is one of the most underrated and overlooked references, perhaps because, from photos, it appears to be just an ordinary dress watch. Its perfect 37mm size and excellent proportions make for an incredibly elegant timepiece. When handling it in person, you begin to realize just how special this watch is—it could very well be one of the greatest modern dress watches of all time.
CONDITION REPORT
This Chopard L.U.C. 16/1860/2 is in excellent overall condition.
It comes with its original presentation box, as well as a solid 18-carat rose gold caseback with the engravings all still sharp and legible. It also comes with an extra Chopard black alligator leather strap.
The watch is in full working order.
SPECS
Brand: Chopard L.U.C.
Year: 1990’s
Model: 16/1860/2
Material: 18-carat Rose Gold
Movement: Chopard Cal. 1.96, Self-Winding Micro-Rotor
Case Diameter: 37mm x 8.5mm (Lug-to-Lug 45mm)
Lug Width: 18mm
Strap: Delugs Black Alligator Leather Strap with signed 18-carat Rose Gold Tang Buckle, extra Chopard Black Alligator Leather Strap 
